Ryokan Guide: What to Expect at a Traditional Japanese Inn

Everything you need to know before your first ryokan stay. From tatami rooms and onsen baths to kaiseki dinners and yukata etiquette, this guide covers it all.

By Stay in Japan Editorial

What Is a Ryokan?

A ryokan (旅館) is a traditional Japanese inn that has been welcoming travelers for centuries. Unlike Western hotels, ryokan offer a deeply immersive cultural experience — tatami-floored rooms, futon bedding, communal hot spring baths, and multi-course kaiseki dinners served in your room.

There are over 40,000 ryokan across Japan, ranging from simple family-run inns costing 8,000 yen per night to luxurious retreats exceeding 100,000 yen. Regardless of price, the core experience remains the same: warmth, hospitality, and a connection to Japanese tradition.

What Happens When You Arrive

Check-In Ritual

Upon arrival, you will be greeted at the entrance and asked to remove your shoes. The staff will provide slippers for indoor use. You will be escorted to your room, where green tea and a small sweet will be waiting — a welcoming gesture called "ochatsuke."

Your Room

Ryokan rooms feature tatami mats, a low table, floor cushions (zabuton), and a tokonoma alcove with seasonal decorations. Your futon will be laid out by staff while you are at dinner or in the bath. In the morning, it will be folded away.

The Onsen Experience

Most ryokan feature onsen (温泉) — natural hot spring baths. This is often the highlight of a ryokan stay.

  • Wash thoroughly before entering the bath — Shower stations are provided; never enter the bath dirty
  • No swimsuits allowed — Baths are entered naked; baths are gender-separated
  • Keep your small towel out of the water — Place it on your head or beside the bath
  • Tattoo policies vary — Some ryokan prohibit tattooed guests from communal baths; private baths (kashikiri) are often available
  • Bathe before dinner — The traditional order is bath, then dinner, then a second bath before bed

Kaiseki: The Multi-Course Dinner

Kaiseki (懐石) is the pinnacle of Japanese cuisine. A ryokan kaiseki dinner typically includes 8 to 12 courses, each highlighting seasonal and local ingredients.

  • Sakizuke — Appetizer, similar to an amuse-bouche
  • Owan — Clear soup
  • Sashimi — Fresh raw fish
  • Yakimono — Grilled dish, often fish
  • Nimono — Simmered vegetables and protein
  • Gohan — Steamed rice with pickles and miso soup
  • Dessert — Often seasonal fruit or wagashi sweets

Dinner is typically served between 6:00 and 7:00 PM. Arriving late is considered disrespectful to the kitchen.

Yukata and Etiquette

Wearing Your Yukata

A yukata (lightweight cotton robe) will be provided in your room. Wrap the left side over the right — right over left is reserved for dressing the deceased. Tie the obi belt at your waist. You can wear your yukata throughout the inn, including to meals and the bath.

Slipper Rules

  • Indoor slippers — Wear in hallways, remove before stepping on tatami
  • Toilet slippers — Separate slippers are provided at the restroom door; never forget to switch back
  • Outdoor sandals — Provided for garden walks

How to Choose the Right Ryokan

  • Budget ryokan (8,000-15,000 yen per person) — Simple rooms, shared baths, may not include meals
  • Mid-range (15,000-30,000 yen per person) — Private or semi-private baths, full kaiseki dinner
  • Luxury (30,000-100,000+ yen per person) — Private onsen in your room, premium kaiseki, dedicated attendant
  • Top regions: Hakone, Beppu, Kinosaki Onsen, Kurokawa Onsen, Ginzan Onsen